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Heating and Electrical Supplies

Products for Heating Systems and Electrical Work

Marshalls Creek Plumbing and Electrical Supplies is fully stocked with parts, equipment, and supplies needed for heating and electrical jobs. We don't just sell the products—we know how they are to be installed and can answer your questions about them. Simply visit our shop at Marshalls Creek, PA and speak with one of our friendly staff members.

Electrical Products

When it comes to electrical work, few can match our expertise. Our staff has more than 35 years of experience both in the field and in being fully certified electrical inspectors.

We can help you through any electrical project or problem, and we have the supplies. Our product selection includes:

  • Breakers
  • Devices
  • Plastic And metal boxes
  • PVC, EMT, and IMC Conduits
  • Wires

We also have standard batteries. If you are looking for specialty batteries, we can order any type for:

  • Security Alarms
  • Lawn Tractors
  • Any Other Type of Electrical or Electronic Devices and Equipment

Have you tested your GFI or arc-fault protection devices lately?

Make sure your computers and TVs are turned off then push the test button on each unit (breaker or GFI outlet). The device should trip to the “off” position.

For breakers, move the handle to the complete “off” position and turn it back on. For outlets, there is a reset button on the unit that you must push in so the device could be switched on again. If the unit does not trip, replace it.

Newer GFI outlets have an indicator light on them that is on when the outlet is ready for use. The light goes out when it is tripped (off). Units made in 1999 and earlier do not have this feature.

Note: On these older units, it is common for them to not trip or stay energized when tested. Many of these outlets have black and red push buttons on them.

If you own these outdated devices, we recommend that you replace them because you may not have the GFI protection. The newer unit with the indicator light has built-in safety protection that turns the outlet off if the GFI protection is not working correctly.

Heat Tapes

As required by the NEC, all heat tapes must be protected by a GFI device. You should only use heat tapes that carry the UL label.

Heat tapes with a two-wire plug with no grounded braided cover over the heating cable do not have the UL label. If these tapes short out or overheat, they arc along the tape like a lit fuse. There have been many fires throughout the country that started because of these kinds of heat tapes.

On the other hand, the UL-listed heat tapes have a three-wire plug and a grounding sheath around the electrical wires through the whole tape. If the tape starts to arc, it will cause an electrical short on the grounded sheath and trip the GFI device. Using UL-listed heat tapes and making sure that the GFI device is working correctly can save lives and properties.

We carry self-regulating, UL-listed heat tapes that we cut to lengths up to 75 feet max. These tapes are installed in a three-wire thermostat with cord. You can wrap this type of heat tape over itself with no danger.

Electrical Panels

There are two different types of electrical panels found in residential homes:

The Service Panel

This is the first overcurrent ( main circuit breaker ) device after the power company's meter. When it is just a Main Breaker some contractors may call it a Service Disconnect they are one and the same.  It can be installed inside or outside the home. The amp rating limits the amount of power coming into the home ( 100 or 200 amp ). Sometimes it can be built into the meter base or is directly next to it. This device will turn off all the power within the home. While much more common in commercial buildings, there may be up to (6) Service Disconnect per meter installed and they must be in the same location. A Bonding Screw or connection is installed in these type of panels.

Subpanels

These panels are installed after the Service Panel. If you have an existing home and add an addition the contractor may install a Subpanel in the addition to power all of the new circuits in the addition. These panels are powered from another panel usually the service panel. If you have a Service Disconnect outside and have a panel installed inside with all the branch circuits for all your devices and equipment this panel is a subpanel. If there is no disconnect outside and you have a main breaker along with your branch circuits then this is a Service Panel, because the Main Breaker is the 1st overcurrent device after the meter.  You can have several subpanels within your home as long as the total load stays below the rating of the Main Breaker / Service Disconnect. You do NOT add up the amp rating of all your branch circuit breakers to get your service load. Your contractor can help you with this calculation or you can come in and we can help you. You do not use a Bonding Screw or connection in a subpanel. You have to install a grounding bar to the panel box. You have to run 4 wires ( two hot, 1 neutral & 1 ground ) from the panel feeding the subpanel. The ground and neutral wires are separated in a subpanel but they are connected in the Service Panel.  You do not need a main breaker in a subpanel. 

Electrical Wiring

As an electrical inspector for 20 years, I have a comparison I would like to share. "Just because someone can start a car it does not mean they know how to drive."

In electrical wiring, t goes "Just because it works does not mean it is wired correctly."

There are many different types of wire, the most common in residential homes are, NM-B or as some people call it Romex. This wire is for inside use only not to be used underground even if installed in conduit. It can be installed under a deck as long as it is not exposed to the weather. The other type of wire is UF wire which can be installed outside and underground.

All electric wiring is rated by size ( 14,12 & 10 gauge as an example ). The size and type of wire determines the amp rating of the wire. ( 14 gauge NM-B wire is rated at 15 amp, 12 gauge is 20amp.) The wire size sets the maximum rating of the overcurrent device ( fuse or circuit breaker ). Hence a 14 gauge NM-B wire is 15 amp max. While a 12 NM-B wire can be fused at 15 or 20 amp.  You look at the electrical load and pick out the correct wire size for that load. In residential wiring basically, you have hot, neutral & ground wires. You have to treat each conductor with equal importance. A ground wire and connection is just as important as the hot ( black ) wire and connection.  

Circuit Breaker

This is a device that provides both overcurrent and electrical fault protection. Overcurrent is when the current draw is over the rating on the breaker 15 or 20 amp for example. When the contractor is running a circuit he will make sure that the total load of the circuit is no more than 80% of the breaker rating. For a 15 amp circuit, the total load should be not more than12 amps for 20 amps it would be 16 amps. If the load on a 15 amp circuit draws more than 15 amps the circuit breaker will trip out and disconnect the power. It has just tripped out on an overcurrent condition. Electrical Fault is when the hot conductor makes contact with the neutral or equipment grounding conductor. When this happens there is a very large amount of inrush current at the contact point. This current creates heat ( hence electrical fire ) the circuit breaker detects this fault condition and disconnects the power within a fraction of a second. Think of a 60 watt light bulb and how hot it is when it is on. This is 1/2 of one amp. A standard incandescence lamp is 20% light & 80% heat. Now imagine the amount heat generated at 15 amps. The circuit breaker must be able to handle this fault current and safely disconnect the power. This is why if a circuit breaker trips out and will not reset after ONE try it is time to call your contractor to have the circuit checked out. Each time you try to turn on the breaker under a fault condition you are creating heat at the fault point which could lead to a fire.

Equipment Grounding Conductor

This is the bare wire in type NM-B & UF wiring. This conductor is connected to the noncurrent carrying metal parts of equipment, raceway or box.

When a hot conductor makes contact with a grounded surface you have a fault condition, see above, and the circuit breaker or fuse will disconnect the power.  By design, the equipment grounding conductor is at a very low electrical resistance so as to allow a large amount of current to flow quickly which the protection device ( circuit breaker or fuse ) will pick up and disconnect the power. If the grounding conductor is not connected correctly it will have a high electrical resistance which will delay the operation of the protection device. This delay can cause property damage and or death.  Every electrical connection is important but many professionals feel that the equipment grounding connections are the most important connection in a circuit. This is why you have to run 4 wires to a residential subpanel. You can not have neutral current on the equipment grounding conductor as this would raise the electrical resistance on it and delay the operation of the protection device.  Once the equipment grounding conductor(s) leave the service disconnect/service panel they are never connected to the neutral conductor. This is to maintain the electrical low resistance to conduct the large fault current quickly and to have the protection device operate within their very tight specifications.  ( milliseconds )

Electric Energy Saving from Basic Power 

This product is made right here in Marshall Creek Pa.  The device is being sold worldwide and has been tested, approved and confirmed that it does what they claim in over 4 different countries. The Inventor has 86 US and International patents. This is not just a power factor bank. In layman's terms, this unit cleans the power in your home. In a lab 60 cycle (Hz) power is a perfect sine wave. In real life the are electrical distortions created during transmission to your home. In your home, motor loads make electrical noise which is distortion. The distortion makes the sine wave fussy with spikes on it. This makes some of the power unusable, but you paid for it! This device cleans this distortion and does not send it back into the power grid ( as it is happening now-- Think money out the window ) instead it sends it back into your wiring as usable power. That means you have to draw less from the power grid. How much do you save? In a residential home, the savings start at 11%. Every motor loads every light fixture with a ballast, all of your chargers for tablets, smart phone etc. and even LED lamps ( they have electronic drivers ) these all create electrical distortion within your home. Now add the power company's line noise coming into your home it has unusable power but the meter reads it as Kilowatt used. This device cleans the electrical Power Quality up and puts in back into your home, you paid for power why not use it all.

On top of this, it also has Lightning Protection, Transient Voltage Surge Suppression and reduces voltage sage & spikes (light flicker).  I was a fully certified Electrical inspector for 20 years and have inspected schools, Emergency Rooms, hotels plus thousands of electrical services and homes. I  conducted two classes on the National Electrical Code. I have been to their manufacturing building and have tested this device with different motors loads. It does work!  We have these units in stock and they mount near your service panel using a two pole 20 amp breaker.

Heating Products

Heating systems at affordable prices are within your reach at Marshalls Creek Plumbing and Electrical Supplies. We have units that run on:

  • LP Gas
  • NG
  • Oil
  • Electricity

Stay warm during cold seasons with a high-performance heating system. Our selection includes:

  • Mini Split systems
  • Hot Air systems
  • Hot Water baseboards
  • Electric Baseboards

Replacement parts for all the above units are largely on the shelf. If we don't have the part you are looking for, we have the resources to get it here fast and at the right price.

Thermoflo Equipment

Oil-Fired Water Boiler

Compared to other heating systems, an oil-fired water boiler may cost more to install, but it is cheaper to operate. Invest in one to enjoy big savings in the long run. Here are some features of the Thermoflo oil-fired water boiler:

  • 0.70 To 1.75 GPH #2 fuel oil
  • Efficiencies 85% To 87% AFUE
  • Enhanced Control
  • Rear Flue outlets
  • Easy Service
  • High-Efficiency Oil burner
  • Cast Iron sections with built-in air separator
  • Insulated Heavy-Gauge steel jacket

Equipment:

  • Factory Packaged and tested
  • Factory-Assembled Cast iron assembly, swing away burner mounting door, with refractory and recessed target wall in combustion chamber
  • Taco 007 Circulator
  • High-Efficiency Flame-Retention oil burner (Beckett AFG or NX, Carlin, or Riello)
  • High Limit control with circulator relay and LWCO function
  • Built-In Air separator
  • Combination Pressure/temperature gauge
  • 30 PSIG ASME relief valve
  • Drain Valve
  • Barometer Damper
  • Tankless Heater (OWT)
  • Top Flue vent kit (optional)

Gas-Fired Water Boiler

The Thermoflo gas-fired water boiler can run on either natural gas or propane. Other features include:

  • 52,000 To 245,000 Btuh input
  • Atmospheric (Chimney) venting
  • Control Module with indicator lights
  • Easy Service
  • High Efficiency
  • Cast Iron sections with built-in air separator
  • Insulated Heavy-Gauge steel jacket
  • Factory Packaged and tested
  • Insulated Heavy-Gauge steel jacket
  • Cast Iron Sections with built-in separator
  • Vertical Draft hood
  • Taco 007 circulator
  • Stainless-Steel Burners
  • Spark-Ignited (Intermittent) pilot system
  • Electronic Ignition/flame

Not only do we offer you top-notch goods and replacement parts, but we can also help you with any queries you may have about our products. Call us today at 570-223-8398!